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Surf’s up!
After a windy first week full of windsurfing, the wind finally (?) calmed down. For me, the end of last year as well as the beginning of 2012 has been all about surfing. Until the other day, it hasn’t been large measured on a Hawaiian winter scale, but a lot of fun. A few playful session on Hookipa in almost glassy 2-3 foot waves, a little super clean day at Taveres (haven’t surfed that little spot for I don’t know how many years) as well as some quite weird sessions on Paia bay (more or less same conditions as my home spot ’Torö’ just south of Stockholm on the Swedish east coast). I have had some company by my Swedish friend Pär and David, but have also met the same old local crews that seem to populate these spots year after year. Everybody is friendly, smiling and surf with no attitude. This is the true Hawaiian O’hana. It is so nice to be back in these line-ups. No rubber necessary, just some strong sunscreen, bordies and your board.
My most frequent surf buddy is my oldest daughter Tora. This trip, she has stepped down to a proper short-board. One foot shorter, at least one inch narrower and a lot thinner than she is used to. It is hard work for her and we still haven’t had the perfect conditions for her. The south side has been too flat, and the north shore to bumpy, big or just plain gnarley. Late today and tomorrow a new major swell will arrive and Tora’s favorite spot on the south side should be good – we hope. Tora really need favorable conditions to get her short board surfing going. OK, now I need another cup of coffee. To get my surfed out body into shape for another day in paradise!
Tora with her new board[IMG]https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3284013435224339432-8811059275104751285?l=jeppessurfnotes.blogspot.com[/IMG]
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