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Best week of surfing this winter so far
Been a while since I posted anything here. This is not because it hasn’t been anything happening surfwise. On the contorary. Last week was the best week of surfing over here so far this winter. The trade winds that so often destroys the surf calmed down and was replaced by light Kona-wind from the south. This made most north-shore spots more or less glassy until noon. The swell wasn’t large by any means but still more than enough for everybody except big wave chargers.
I had some very nice morning sessions at middles at Hookipa. Middles is a quite soft left hander that suits my level of surfing perfect. When it is a little bit bigger I have to be quite on, and work for my waves. The lineup is almost always crowded with everything form skilled longboarder to shortboarders and everything in between. When smaller the average surf ability goes down and everything becomes really easy – I sometimes feel I almost dominate.
I have also surfed a lot of inside brakes with my daughter Tora. She has great technique paddling in and taking of on her shortboard, but she feels uncomfortable in the relative rough sea on the north shore. It is not an easy task to find that perfect spot for learning when the south side is flat. I haven’t any real pictures of me surfing, and I’m grateful for that. I would be so disappointed, and it is much better to live on in that deceptive belief in that I actually can surf. I have so much fun out there, on the reefs, in the waves, under the sun, among the many fellow surfers, turtles and humpback whales.
One more thing. I’m no photographer, but my wife do sometimes manage to point and shoot with her cell phone.
Tora in a late take off in unusual clean Paia Bay
Tora up and riding – kind of – in tiny Pavilion’s
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